Most day trips from Agra lead to more monuments. This one leads to a river. The Chambal, south-east of the city, is one of the cleanest rivers in northern India, and its protected stretch is one of the last strongholds of an animal you will not see anywhere else in the region: the gharial.
In this article
The National Chambal Sanctuary
The sanctuary protects a long stretch of the Chambal River where it forms the borders of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh. It was set up in the late 1970s, chiefly to save the gharial, and the river’s deep, sandy, fast-flowing water still suits it better than almost anywhere else.
The landscape is part of the appeal: the river is lined with the eroded ravines that the Chambal country is known for.
What You Might See
The gharial is a slender-snouted, fish-eating crocodilian, critically endangered and unmistakable once you see one basking on a sandbank. Mugger crocodiles live here too, along with freshwater turtles. With luck, you may see the Gangetic river dolphin surfacing to breathe.
For birdwatchers the prize is the Indian skimmer, a rare river bird that nests on the sandbanks, along with river terns, lapwings and, in winter, many migrants.
Getting There
The usual way to visit from Agra is by car to the area around Bah, roughly 70 km south-east of the city, and then by boat on the river with a local operator or a lodge. Allow a full day including the drive. Boat permits and charges are set locally, so arrange them in advance through a lodge or operator.
When to Go
The cooler months, roughly November to March, are the best season: animals bask on the banks in the winter sun and the migrant birds are in. Summer is very hot, and the monsoon raises the river. Morning boat trips are best. See our best time to visit Agra for the wider picture.
Combining Trips
The temple town of Bateshwar lies in the same direction, on the Yamuna, if you want to add a cultural stop. For another nature outing closer to the city, see our piece on Sur Sarovar and the bear rescue centre. Back in Agra, Tajnuma on Fatehabad Road is open until midnight for a pure vegetarian Mughlai dinner.
