The Tajnuma Journal
Itineraries, monument timings, seasons and food — written from Fatehabad Road, in the neighbourhood the Taj Mahal stands in. No invented distances, no ticket prices that will be out of date by the time you read them.
A pot, a lid, a strip of dough and a low fire. How dum cooking works, and how much of its famous origin story is true.
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She had coins struck in her name, shot tigers, and built the most delicate tomb in Agra. The most powerful woman of the Mughal court.
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The towns where Krishna is said to have been born and raised are on the road to Delhi. They are living pilgrimage places, not monuments, and need a different approach.
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The first Mughal emperor complained that Hindustan had no ice. His grandson's court had it carried down from the mountains.
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Leavened or not, oven or griddle, plain or enriched. A short guide to the bread basket at a Mughlai meal.
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A prince, the woman he married, nineteen years, and the tomb that followed. The history behind the building, without the embroidery.
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Past Fatehpur Sikri, just inside Rajasthan, there is a wetland full of birds where you travel by cycle rickshaw. It is the quietest day out from Agra.
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A fried lentil bread, a sharp potato curry and a jalebi straight from the syrup. The most local meal in Agra is over by mid-morning.
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A few threads colour a whole pot. What saffron is, where the Mughals got theirs, and how it is used.
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The flowers on the Taj Mahal are not painted. They are cut from stone and set into the marble, and the craft is still practised in Agra.
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The emperor who built Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri is buried on the edge of the city, in a tomb that looks like nothing else the Mughals made.
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The most powerful man in India spent a growing share of his days eating no meat. What the records say, and why.
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A walled city, not a fort. Akbar's sandstone, Shah Jahan's marble, and the room where he watched the Taj for eight years.
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No onion, no garlic, no root vegetables. Which Mughlai dishes adapt easily, which do not, and how to ask.
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The section names on our menu are Persian and Urdu. Here is what each one means, and how to build a meal from them.
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The whole Taj Mahal, across the river, in evening light, with almost nobody between you and it.
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Mughlai cooking is aromatic, not fiery. Ten spices do most of the work, and one famous one is missing.
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One day is enough to see the Taj. Two is enough to see Agra. A day-by-day plan, with the Friday closure built in.
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A sunrise visit ends at breakfast time, a late one at lunch. What to eat, and where, depending on when you come out of the gate.
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Not a vegetarian menu alongside a meat one. What it actually means when there is no meat, fish or egg in the building.
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Smaller than the Taj, older than the Taj, and in some ways more beautiful. The tomb that taught Agra to build in marble.
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Milk, saffron, cardamom and patience. The desserts of the Mughal table, and which ones you can still order.
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Fast train or car on the expressway? How to choose, what to book, and whether a same-day trip is worth it.
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Eleven courses, from the amuse bouche to two desserts. What each one is, and why it sits where it does.
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Early starts, short visits, long lunches and a garden to run around in. How to do Agra with children without anyone melting down.
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Pulao, naan, kebab, sherbet. Which parts of the Mughlai table came from Persia, which came from India, and which came later.
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Marble inlay, zardozi, leather and petha. What is worth buying in Agra, how to tell good from bad, and the shopping trap to avoid.
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Arches, carved screens and Mughal-era artwork. A short walk through the room, and what each part of it borrows from.
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The Mughal kitchen was an administered department with its own accounts, not a legend. Here is what the records say the emperors ate.
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The assumption is that Mughlai means meat. The court's own records, its Jain visitors and its Rajput households all say something more interesting.
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A Mughal meal was not a sequence of courses. It was a spread, laid on a cloth, and the cloth gave the whole thing its name.
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Translucent, candied and everywhere in Agra. What petha actually is, which kind to buy, and why the Taj Mahal story attached to it is a legend.
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Almost everyone gives Agra one monument and one day. The city has four more worth the time, and they are all quieter than the Taj.
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Akbar built a capital, used it for about fourteen years, and walked away. It is roughly 40 km from Agra and largely intact.
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Most visitors get one day in Agra. Here is how to spend it without spending half of it in a queue or in the afternoon heat.
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The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays, opens at sunrise, and will turn you away at the gate over a tripod. The rest of what is worth knowing before you go.
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October to March is the easy answer. The more useful answer depends on whether you mind heat, crowds, fog, or paying peak-season rates.
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Agra is one of the easier Indian cities to eat vegetarian in. Knowing the vocabulary, and the local specialities, makes it easier still.
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Mughlai cooking has a vegetarian repertoire far older and deeper than the menus suggest. Twelve dishes to order, and what each one actually is.
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Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001
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