The Tajnuma Journal
Itineraries, monument timings, seasons and food — written from Fatehabad Road, in the neighbourhood the Taj Mahal stands in. No invented distances, no ticket prices that will be out of date by the time you read them.
The Mughal kitchen was an administered department with its own accounts, not a legend. Here is what the records say the emperors ate.
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The assumption is that Mughlai means meat. The court's own records, its Jain visitors and its Rajput households all say something more interesting.
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A Mughal meal was not a sequence of courses. It was a spread, laid on a cloth, and the cloth gave the whole thing its name.
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Translucent, candied and everywhere in Agra. What petha actually is, which kind to buy, and why the Taj Mahal story attached to it is a legend.
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Almost everyone gives Agra one monument and one day. The city has four more worth the time, and they are all quieter than the Taj.
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Akbar built a capital, used it for about fourteen years, and walked away. It is roughly 40 km from Agra and largely intact.
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Most visitors get one day in Agra. Here is how to spend it without spending half of it in a queue or in the afternoon heat.
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The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays, opens at sunrise, and will turn you away at the gate over a tripod. The rest of what is worth knowing before you go.
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October to March is the easy answer. The more useful answer depends on whether you mind heat, crowds, fog, or paying peak-season rates.
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Agra is one of the easier Indian cities to eat vegetarian in. Knowing the vocabulary, and the local specialities, makes it easier still.
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Mughlai cooking has a vegetarian repertoire far older and deeper than the menus suggest. Twelve dishes to order, and what each one actually is.
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Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001
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