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  • Tajnuma, 2nd Floor, Jobaaj Complex, Fatehabad Rd, opposite Howard Plaza, Bansal Nagar, Tajganj, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001
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The Tajnuma Journal

Agra, for People Who Are About to Visit It

Itineraries, monument timings, seasons and food — written from Fatehabad Road, in the neighbourhood the Taj Mahal stands in. No invented distances, no ticket prices that will be out of date by the time you read them.

A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Diwali in Agra: Inside the Mithai Box

Kaju katli, laddoo, barfi and a little silver. The sweet box that changes hands by the thousand in Agra every Diwali, opened piece by piece.

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Carved screens in the dining hall at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  2 min read

The Mosque and the Jawab: The Taj Mahal's Two Red Buildings

One of the two red buildings beside the Taj is a mosque. The other is its answer.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Gluten-Free in Agra: A Survival Guide for Coeliacs

Bread on every table, flour in the spice tin. How to eat well in a wheat-loving city without getting caught out.

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Mughal-era artwork and history panel at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  2 min read

Before the Mughals: How Sikandar Lodi Made Agra a Capital

The Mughals did not choose Agra. They captured a capital that was already there.

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Window-side tables at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  2 min read

Sur Sarovar and the Bears of Agra: A Wildlife Half-Day

Agra's most hopeful sight is not a monument. It is a sloth bear that used to dance on a rope.

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A booth beneath a carved arch at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  2 min read

Mariam-uz-Zamani's Tomb: The Quiet Monument Next to Akbar

The mother of an emperor lies in a building that was already old when she died.

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A vegetarian thali served on brass at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  2 min read

Guru ka Tal: Agra's Sikh Shrine on the Delhi Road

Most travellers pass it on the highway into Agra. It holds one of the most important stories in Sikh history.

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A hand-painted Mughal ceiling at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  2 min read

The Great Gate: How to Read the Taj Mahal's Entrance

The gate is the first great building you walk through, and the one almost nobody looks at.

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Evening light in the dining room at Tajnuma, Tajganj, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Tajganj: The Town That Grew Up Around the Taj Mahal

The lanes south of the Taj were not an afterthought. They were planned with the tomb, and they were meant to pay for it.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Soya Chaap: How North India Built a Kebab From Soybeans

It is shaped like a chop, cooked like a kebab and made from soybeans and flour. The vegetarian's answer to the tandoor.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Vegan in Agra: What to Order, and the Questions to Ask

Vegetarian is everywhere in Agra. Vegan takes a few questions. Here is where the ghee, cream and paneer hide, and how to ask.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Mathura Peda: The Milk Sweet of Krishna's Birthplace

Milk, sugar and patience, cooked until it turns the colour of toffee. The sweet of Krishna's home town, and the one Agra sends you to Mathura for.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Seekh, Shami, Galouti, Tikka: Every Kebab Explained, Without Meat

Skewered, griddled, melted or charred: the kebab families of the Mughlai table, and how a vegetarian kitchen cooks every one.

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The dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Korma, Kofta, Shorba: A Diner's Glossary for Agra

Handi, khamni, sheermal, dum. The words on an Agra menu, explained in plain English so you can order like you live here.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Chole Bhature, Agra Style: The Plate Built for a Big Appetite

A bread that balloons in hot oil, chickpeas dark with spice, and a raw onion on the side. North India's heaviest happiness, Agra-style.

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The dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Why Chai Tastes Better in a Clay Cup

Unglazed, hand-thrown, used once and smashed. The humble kulhad does more to a cup of tea than you would think.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

How to Eat Agra's Street Food Without Regretting It

The food is rarely the problem. The water, the ice and the timing usually are. A field guide to eating Agra's streets well.

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A vegetarian dish plated on copper at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Dalmoth: The Crunchy Agra Souvenir Hiding Behind Petha

Petha gets the fame. Dalmoth, the salty, crackling lentil mix sold beside it, is what Agra actually snacks on.

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Interior of Tajnuma, a fine dining restaurant in Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

The Charbagh: How to Read a Mughal Garden in Agra

Four quarters, two channels of water and a wall around it. The garden plan behind every Mughal tomb in Agra, and where to see it.

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Interior of Tajnuma, a fine dining restaurant in Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Agra's Old City: Jama Masjid, Kinari Bazaar and the Lanes Between

Behind Agra Fort there is a city that most visitors never enter: a seventeenth-century mosque and lanes of shops that have sold the same goods for generations.

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Vegetarian Mughlai dish served at Tajnuma in Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Pulao and Biryani: What the Difference Actually Is

One is cooked together in a single pot. The other is cooked apart, layered and sealed. The rest of the argument follows from that.

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Signature Mughlai vegetarian dish plated at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  4 min read

Dum: The Sealed Pot and the Slow Fire

A pot, a lid, a strip of dough and a low fire. How dum cooking works, and how much of its famous origin story is true.

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Mughal-inspired interior at Tajnuma, a restaurant near the Taj Mahal in Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

Nur Jahan: The Empress Who Built the Baby Taj

She had coins struck in her name, shot tigers, and built the most delicate tomb in Agra. The most powerful woman of the Mughal court.

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A table laid for a meal in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Mathura and Vrindavan: A Day Trip From Agra

The towns where Krishna is said to have been born and raised are on the road to Delhi. They are living pilgrimage places, not monuments, and need a different approach.

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A mango lassi served at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

Sherbet, Lassi and the Cold Drinks of the Mughal Table

The first Mughal emperor complained that Hindustan had no ice. His grandson's court had it carried down from the mountains.

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Vegetarian Mughlai dish served at Tajnuma in Agra

Agra Food  ·  4 min read

Naan, Khameeri, Sheermal: The Breads of the Mughal Table

Leavened or not, oven or griddle, plain or enriched. A short guide to the bread basket at a Mughlai meal.

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Mughal-era artwork on the walls at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal: The People Behind the Taj

A prince, the woman he married, nineteen years, and the tomb that followed. The history behind the building, without the embroidery.

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Mughal-inspired interior at Tajnuma, a restaurant near the Taj Mahal in Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Keoladeo National Park: The Bharatpur Day Trip From Agra

Past Fatehpur Sikri, just inside Rajasthan, there is a wetland full of birds where you travel by cycle rickshaw. It is the quietest day out from Agra.

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A vegetarian chaat course plated on a copper tray at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Bedai and Jalebi: The Agra Breakfast

A fried lentil bread, a sharp potato curry and a jalebi straight from the syrup. The most local meal in Agra is over by mid-morning.

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A platter of small sweet and chaat courses served at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

Saffron in Mughal Cooking: The Spice That Came From Kashmir

A few threads colour a whole pot. What saffron is, where the Mughals got theirs, and how it is used.

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Carved screens and patterned floor tiling in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  4 min read

Parchin Kari: The Marble Inlay of the Taj Mahal

The flowers on the Taj Mahal are not painted. They are cut from stone and set into the marble, and the craft is still practised in Agra.

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A framed panel on Akbar, the third Mughal emperor, on the wall at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Akbar's Tomb at Sikandra: A Visitor's Guide

The emperor who built Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri is buried on the edge of the city, in a tomb that looks like nothing else the Mughals made.

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A framed panel on Akbar, the third Mughal emperor, on the wall at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

Akbar's Vegetarian Days: The Emperor Who Gave Up Meat

The most powerful man in India spent a growing share of his days eating no meat. What the records say, and why.

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The dining room at Tajnuma, Agra, laid for service

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Agra Fort: A Visitor's Guide

A walled city, not a fort. Akbar's sandstone, Shah Jahan's marble, and the room where he watched the Taj for eight years.

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A vegetarian chaat course plated on a copper tray at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

Jain-Friendly Dining in Agra: No Onion, No Garlic

No onion, no garlic, no root vegetables. Which Mughlai dishes adapt easily, which do not, and how to ask.

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Signature Mughlai vegetarian dish plated at Tajnuma, Agra

Behind Tajnuma  ·  3 min read

How to Read the Tajnuma Menu

The section names on our menu are Persian and Urdu. Here is what each one means, and how to build a meal from them.

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Dining room at Tajnuma, a fine dining restaurant in Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Mehtab Bagh: The Best Sunset View of the Taj Mahal

The whole Taj Mahal, across the river, in evening light, with almost nobody between you and it.

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Vegetarian Mughlai dish served at Tajnuma in Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

The Royal Spice Box: 10 Spices of the Mughal Kitchen

Mughlai cooking is aromatic, not fiery. Ten spices do most of the work, and one famous one is missing.

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Carved screens and patterned floor tiling in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  2 min read

Two Days in Agra: A Complete Itinerary

One day is enough to see the Taj. Two is enough to see Agra. A day-by-day plan, with the Friday closure built in.

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Mughal-inspired interior at Tajnuma, a restaurant near the Taj Mahal in Agra

Agra Food  ·  2 min read

Where to Eat After Visiting the Taj Mahal

A sunrise visit ends at breakfast time, a late one at lunch. What to eat, and where, depending on when you come out of the gate.

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A vegetarian chaat course plated on a copper tray at Tajnuma, Agra

Behind Tajnuma  ·  2 min read

An Entirely Vegetarian Kitchen: What It Means at Tajnuma

Not a vegetarian menu alongside a meat one. What it actually means when there is no meat, fish or egg in the building.

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A table laid for a meal in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  2 min read

Itimad-ud-Daulah: A Guide to the Baby Taj

Smaller than the Taj, older than the Taj, and in some ways more beautiful. The tomb that taught Agra to build in marble.

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A platter of small sweet and chaat courses served at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

Mughal Desserts: Shahi Tukda, Phirni, Zarda and Kulfi

Milk, saffron, cardamom and patience. The desserts of the Mughal table, and which ones you can still order.

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Interior of Tajnuma, a fine dining restaurant in Agra

Agra Travel  ·  2 min read

Delhi to Agra: Train, Car or Expressway?

Fast train or car on the expressway? How to choose, what to book, and whether a same-day trip is worth it.

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A course from the Mughlai tasting menu at Tajnuma, Agra

Behind Tajnuma  ·  2 min read

Chef Mukesh's Mughlai Tasting Menu, Course by Course

Eleven courses, from the amuse bouche to two desserts. What each one is, and why it sits where it does.

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A mango lassi served at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Agra With Kids: A Family-Friendly Guide

Early starts, short visits, long lunches and a garden to run around in. How to do Agra with children without anyone melting down.

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Carved screens and patterned floor tiling in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

From Persia to Agra: How Mughlai Cuisine Was Born

Pulao, naan, kebab, sherbet. Which parts of the Mughlai table came from Persia, which came from India, and which came later.

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A table laid for a meal in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Agra Shopping Guide: Marble Inlay, Zardozi and Leather

Marble inlay, zardozi, leather and petha. What is worth buying in Agra, how to tell good from bad, and the shopping trap to avoid.

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Interior of Tajnuma, a fine dining restaurant in Agra

Behind Tajnuma  ·  2 min read

The Room: Inside Tajnuma's Mughal-Inspired Dining Room

Arches, carved screens and Mughal-era artwork. A short walk through the room, and what each part of it borrows from.

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A framed panel on Akbar, the third Mughal emperor, on the wall at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  4 min read

The Mughal Kitchen: What the Emperors Actually Ate

The Mughal kitchen was an administered department with its own accounts, not a legend. Here is what the records say the emperors ate.

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A vegetarian chaat course plated on a copper tray at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  4 min read

Why Vegetarian Mughlai Is Not a Contradiction

The assumption is that Mughlai means meat. The court's own records, its Jain visitors and its Rajput households all say something more interesting.

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A table laid for a meal in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Mughal Heritage  ·  3 min read

Dastarkhwan: How a Mughal Feast Was Served

A Mughal meal was not a sequence of courses. It was a spread, laid on a cloth, and the cloth gave the whole thing its name.

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A platter of small sweet and chaat courses served at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  4 min read

Petha: Agra's Own Sweet

Translucent, candied and everywhere in Agra. What petha actually is, which kind to buy, and why the Taj Mahal story attached to it is a legend.

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The dining room at Tajnuma, Agra, laid for service

Agra Travel  ·  4 min read

Beyond the Taj: Agra's Quieter Monuments

Almost everyone gives Agra one monument and one day. The city has four more worth the time, and they are all quieter than the Taj.

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Carved screens and patterned floor tiling in the dining room at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  4 min read

Fatehpur Sikri: The Half-Day Trip From Agra

Akbar built a capital, used it for about fourteen years, and walked away. It is roughly 40 km from Agra and largely intact.

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Mughal-era artwork on the walls at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Travel  ·  4 min read

One Day in Agra: A Sunrise-to-Dinner Itinerary

Most visitors get one day in Agra. Here is how to spend it without spending half of it in a queue or in the afternoon heat.

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Mughal-inspired interior at Tajnuma, a restaurant near the Taj Mahal in Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

Visiting the Taj Mahal: Hours, Closed Days and What to Know

The Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays, opens at sunrise, and will turn you away at the gate over a tripod. The rest of what is worth knowing before you go.

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Dining room at Tajnuma, a fine dining restaurant in Agra

Agra Travel  ·  3 min read

The Best Time to Visit Agra, Season by Season

October to March is the easy answer. The more useful answer depends on whether you mind heat, crowds, fog, or paying peak-season rates.

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Pure vegetarian Mughlai dish plated at Tajnuma, Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

A Vegetarian's Guide to Eating in Agra

Agra is one of the easier Indian cities to eat vegetarian in. Knowing the vocabulary, and the local specialities, makes it easier still.

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Vegetarian Mughlai dish served at Tajnuma in Agra

Agra Food  ·  3 min read

12 Vegetarian Mughlai Dishes to Try in Agra

Mughlai cooking has a vegetarian repertoire far older and deeper than the menus suggest. Twelve dishes to order, and what each one actually is.

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Visit Tajnuma

2nd Floor, Jobaaj Complex, Fatehabad Road, opposite Howard Plaza, Bansal Nagar, Tajganj,
Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001

Open every day, 12:00 pm – 12:00 am

Reservations: +91 90688 89658

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Get in Touch

Booking request +91 90688 89658 or fill out the order form